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Insalata Caprese

Insalata Caprese is the fancy gourmet name for tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, a dish I eat all summer long as soon as the fresh local tomatoes are ready. Now I find out the Reluctant Gourmet is preparing them all wrong.

I was first told I was making them wrong by Connie Devlin, the mother of one of my wife’s close friends, Susan Devlin. Connie, of Italian descent, possibly makes the best meatballs I’ve ever tasted. During a weekend visit to Susan’s home in New Jersey, we were preparing Insalata Caprese for a dinner party and I suggested adding a little aged balsamic vinegar.

Connie jumped all over me and said, “No vinegar. You don’t mix tomatoes and vinegar.”

“What, no aged balsamic vinegar!” I didn’t believe her for a minute and continued my balsamic vinegar ways and enjoyed every moment.

News to Me

So here I am on vacation in the beautiful oceanside community of Avalon, New Jersey reading a week old food section of The Philadelphia Inquirer and lo and behold I come across an article on Insalta Caprese.

And what do you think they say about making this classic summer treat? No vinegar. I am shocked, dismayed and still disbelieving so I read further.

Insalta caprese comes from the southern Italian island of Capri and according to tradition, the salad is made up of only five ingredients: tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, olive oil and salt. No vinegar. In fact, according to the article and in support of Connie Devlin, vinegar and tomatoes don’t work together.

Why? Because Italians like their salad tomatoes firm, slightly green and tart rather than fully ripe and sweeter the way I prefer them. To them, there is absolutely no reason to add more tartness to the tomatoes with balsamic vineagar. Southern Italians believe the firm, tart slightly green tomatoes are the perfect complement to soft, milky texture of fresh mozzarella.

Speaking of fresh mozzarella, we are talking about the type you find sold packed in water, not the stuff you find at the grocer in shrink-wrapped plastic that is more often used for making pizza. Don’t even bother serving those rubber balls of mozzarella with fresh tomatoes and basil. Not prudent at all.

I usually buy a tub of fresh mozzarella at Costco. It saves me a lot of money but also means I always have some on hand. The shelf life is at least a couple of weeks but be sure to change the water every once in awhile. Good quality fresh mozzarella should be soft, milky and sweet in flavor. You will know when it is starting to go just by the smell. So if you do not plan to have mozzarella every other night, you may be better off purchasing it in smaller quantitites.

The olive oil should be the best extra virgin olive oil you can afford. I like the olive oil from Georgio Zampa’s farm in Sardinia that you can read about at GatewayGourmet.com, but you can find good quality extra virgin olive oil at any gourmet specialty store and now in your local supermarkets. You don’t want to overpower the other fresh ingredients with the oil so you only need a small amount.

The salt should be sea salt. I know I wrote an article called Salt is Salt that basically says all salt is NaCl and therefore there is no difference in taste, but I have been asking a lot of chefs and testing various types of salts myself and I agree with the chefs that sea salt has a cleaner salty flavor. I’ll work on a more comprehensive taste test and report back in a future blog. You can learn more about sea salt and where to purchase some high end product also at GatewayGourmet.

Of course the basil should be fresh and I like to use whole leaves depending on the size of the tomatoes slices. You want to make sure the basil is fresh, not wilted. This time of year there is so much basil around, you can pick it up in most supermarkets at a fairly reasonable price.

We grow our own basil in our backyard and I’m not sure why, but it seems to have a much stronger flavor than the basil we get at the market. I’m guessing the incredibly strong flavor has something to do with its type.

Putting the Insalada Caprese Together

There are lots of ways you can arrange the salad. I typically like to start with whole tomato slices arranged on a platter or individual serving plates but lately I have been cutting the tomato slices in half and sort of stack them like fallen dominos. How thick you slice the tomato gives you some more options. I think ¼ to ½ inch slices work fine.

Next I add a layer of fresh mozzarella to each tomato slice. Be sure to bring the mozzarella cheese to room temperature before serving. Cold mozzarella will not have the same flavor as room temperature cheese.

I then add the fresh basil leaves on top of the mozzarella matching leaf size with tomato size. Big leaves for the bigger slices, smaller ones for the smaller slices.

Then comes the extra virgin olive oil. I stick my thumb over the end of the bottle and drizzle it over the tomato, mozzarella, basil combination. Depending on your personal tastes, add more or less oil to the salad. You don’t want to overwhelm the flavor, just enhance it and remember, it is easier to add more oil then take it away.

It’s now time for a pinch or two of sea salt and some freshly ground pepper. If you don’t have a pepper grinder, I highly recommend you invest in one and then try out various types of pepper. You will be pleasantly surprised by flavor of good quality pepper freshly ground before using.

Balsamic Vinegar or Not

I’m sorry but I like aged balsamic vinegar on my insalata caprese. Maybe it’s the fact that our tomatoes are not unripe and tart or maybe it’s because the aged balsamic vinegar adds a wonderful sweetness to the dish.

Good quality aged balsamic vinegar is nothing like the inexpensive stuff you buy at the supermarket. It is very expensive and is used oh so sparingly. Just a few drops can add a whole lot of flavor to anything you drizzle it on. It is nothing like red or white wine vinegar and I would NOT add these to my insalate caprese.

You can read more about traditionally aged balsamic vinegar at gatewaygourmet.com and where to purchase it at great prices.

Great Time of Year

With all the wonderful fresh tomatoes and basil around, do some of your own experimenting with it and see what combination works for you. There is no perfect way to prepare it, just what tastes good to you.

Cream Puff Cheese Biscuits also known as Gougere

One of the many cooking related gifts I received for Christmas was a cookbook from my daughter’s elementary school. It was filled with recipes sent in from various students’ parents. Funny, I sent one in but don’t see it listed. Hmmm.
Looking over the recipes, they are all very simple but you know they are exactly the kind of recipes busy families are preparing during the week. There are classics like Easy Shrimp Bake and Chicken Parmigiano but there are a few more interesting looking ones like Greek Quesadilla with Tzatziki Sauce.
One of the recipes my wife served over the holidays was for Cheese Gougere or Fluffy Biscuits. Gougeres are made from a thick paste that is also used to make cream puffs and éclairs. It’s called pate a choux that is French for “cabbage paste”. When baked in a round form, the pastry resembles small cabbages.
By adding cheese to the “cream puff paste”, you now have gougere. The secret behind the gougere is when the dough bakes; the moisture in them turns to steam and causes the small drops of dough to swell. The exteriors turn golden brown but the interiors become hollow.
We had a little problem with our Gougere. When we removed them from the oven the puffed up pastry fell. They still tasted great but something was lost in the presentation. You can see what I mean in my photo.
Not sure why they collapsed but next time I will add to the cooking time and see if that helps. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Gougere
Ingredients:
• 2/3 cup of water
• 6 Tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
• 2/3-cup flour
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 3 large eggs
• ½ cup Swiss cheese, finely diced
How to Prepare at Home
1) Adjust the oven rack to the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Always add an additional 5 minutes when you think your oven is at temp.
2) In a saucepan, bring the water and butter to a rolling boil and immediately remove it from heat. Immediately add the salt & all the flour while continuously stirring with a wooden spoon until blended and a thick paste forms in the shape of a ball.
3) Return the pan to a medium-low heat for about one minute or until the pastry leaves the side of the pan. This helps remove any additional moisture. Be sure to keep stirring.
4) Remove the paste from the heat; transfer it to a mixing bowl and using a wooden spoon, stir in the eggs one at a time until the dough is smooth and glossy. Blend in the cheese until it is completely incorporated into the dough. The consistency should be stiff but still allow you to dollop it from a spoon.
5) Using a pastry bag if you have one or just a spoon if you don’t, make 1-inch diameter dollops of dough to form a ring being sure the sides of the dollops are touching.
6) Using a pastry brush and egg yolk mixed with a little water, paint a glaze on each puff.
7) Bake 20 to 30 minutes until the dough puffs up and they are golden in color. Once golden, turn off the oven and let the Gougere sit for 10 to 12 minutes.
Remove from oven and loosen the biscuits with a spatula. Let the biscuits cool and serve warm

How to Make Mango Salsa with Black Beans

We had a great weekend in State College celebrating a bunch of family birthdays. As usual, we stayed at my wife’s sister’s home, who takes on organizing meals for every family gathering. She is a wonderful home cook who puts on these incredible feasts that are unique, entertaining and delicious.

One of the simpler dishes she threw together was this delicious Mango Salsa that was served as an appetizer with chips but could be used just as nicely as a topping for chicken or pork. In fact, I think I threw some on my grilled salmon.

Ingredients:

•½ cup cooked black beans – you can cook them yourself but canned beans will work quite nicely.
•1 ripe medium sized mango
•1 red bell pepper
•½ red onion
•Juice from 3 limes
•8 tablespoons pineapple juice
•1/3 cup of fresh cilantro
•1-tablespoon ground cumin
•1 jalapeno chili pepper
•Salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
Prep the ingredients:

•Peel & pit the mango and then dice it into ¼ inch pieces.
•Core and seed the bell pepper and dice into small pieces.
•Peel and dice the onion into equal sized pieces.
•Squeeze the juice from the limes and have it ready.
•Chop the cilantro finely.
•Stem, seed and mince the jalapeno pepper. Be careful not to touch your hands to your eyes after working with this chile pepper.

How to Prepare at Home:

Combine all the ingredients together in one good sized bowl. Taste and adjust seasonings with the salt and pepper. Don’t overwork the salsa or it will become a big mush.

You can serve this whenever, but it will taste even better if you let it size a while in the refrigerator up to a few days.

Make a Gift from your Kitchen

Flavored vinegars and oils are quite popular theses days. They make a very thoughtful gift for a hostess, for a housewarming, or for Christmas. If you've priced them though, you know that they aren't cheap. You can make your own version of these trendy little items with a few simple ingredients. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

VINEGARS

Flavored vinegars and oils add an extra kick to marinades, sauces, and dressings. If you are looking for an elegant and thoughtful gift to make for Christmas, try these savory blends that are sure to enhance any meal. If you grow your own herbs, this is a great way to use up any excess before the growing season is over. We hope you enjoy these unique blends.

Vinegar Base

1 small bunch of parsley
1 teaspoon of peppercorns
1/8 teaspoon of salt
1 clove of garlic, peeled
1 quart of your choice of vinegar: cider, white distilled, rice wine, white wine, or red wine

Place the parsley, garlic, salt and pepper in a 2 quart ceramic or glass bowl. Bring the vinegar to a boil. Pour the vinegar over the herbal mixture in the bowl. Cover and let the mixture stand for two days. Strain the mixture and decant into a sterilized bottle. Add one to three sprigs of the herbs of your choice. Seal the bottle with a cork or lid. Let stand for two more weeks before using.

Flavor combinations

Tarragon and lemon in white wine vinegar Chives, basil, and parsley in white wine vinegar Oregano, rosemary and thyme in red wine vinegar Lemon and dill in cider vinegar Garlic, chives blossoms and chervil in red wine vinegar Cilantro, jalapeño pepper and lime in white distilled vinegar (this one is hot) Lavender blossoms in cider vinegar Ginger root and cilantro in rice wine vinegar.

OILS

1 teaspoon peppercorns
8 to 10 sprigs of your choice of herbs
Olive oil to fill the container you are using
1 sterile bottle or wide mouth canning jar

Place the herbs and peppercorns into the sterile bottle or wide mouth canning jar. Use a funnel to decant the olive oil into the bottle to cover the herbs. Seal and let stand for one month before using.

Flavor combinations

Lemon and dill
Tarragon and chive
Lemon and garlic (one of our favorites)
Garlic, onion, and basil
Basil and garlic
Cilantro and Lime
Rosemary and Marjoram
Garlic, onion, oregano and red bell pepper

Note: When using large pieces of fruit or vegetables, cut them into small wedges or pieces to fit into the bottle. Use bamboo skewers to hold the pieces together in the bottle.

Use herb vinegar in salad dressings, marinades, or to deglaze pans

How to make a delicious bread pudding

Various pudding recipes, especially bread pudding, have been traditional Christmas dishes since the 19th century. Before discussing bread pudding we must first illuminate what pudding in general is, and that's the real challenge. According to the culinary encyclopedia Larousse

Gastronomique, pudding is "Any of numerous dishes, sweet or savory, served hot or cold, which are prepared in a variety of ways." I think that's the broadest definition I've ever encountered. With those parameters, a McDonalds Happy Meal could be considered pudding. The problem is the word "pudding" has been applied to multifarious preparations over the centuries. Buckle your seatbelts and get ready for a winding culinary ride.

The earliest puddings were created during the medieval period and were very similar to sausages. Seventeenth century English puddings were meat based and savory or sweet from a combination of flour, fruit, nuts and sugar. They were encased in a dough made from flour and suet, (animal fat from the kidneys and loin), and then boiled in a mold or special bag. In fact, at one point the word pudding referred to all boiled dishes.

In France, the word pudding referred to a type of cake made from bread sweetened with milk, raisins, rum, eggs and oranges. Yorkshire pudding is a type of popover made from eggs, milk and flour baked in beef drippings. Rice pudding is based on rice, tapioca on, you guessed it, tapioca, Nesselrode pudding uses cream enriched custard and chestnut puree and soufflé pudding employs choux paste to name a few variants.

What we think of today as pudding has its genesis in 1840's America when people began to thicken custard-based desserts with either custard powder or cornstarch. This thickened custard was then flavored with various items such as vanilla, chocolate, fruit, etc. Custard is a cooked mixture of eggs, milk and sugar and dates back to the middle ages. Pastry cream, crème brulee, flan, and crème anglaise are all custards.

History

Bread pudding was born in the 13th century. Known as "poor man's pudding" it was created as a means of salvaging stale bread. The bread was soaked in milk or water, then sugar, butter, fruit, and/or spices were added, and then it was baked. Sometimes the mixture was housed in a "sop," a hollowed out loaf of bread. Modern bread pudding is made by pouring custard and other flavorings over cubed bread and then baking it.

Many of our current Christmas traditions, including culinary ones, can be traced back to Victorian age England. Various puddings, including bread pudding became classic Christmas fare. In Charles Dickens' Christmas Carol, Christmas dinner is highlighted by the presentation of Mrs. Cratchit's plum pudding, which Bob Cratchit proclaimed "the greatest success achieved by Mrs. Cratchit since their marriage." Hmmmm. Well I can't guarantee your spouse will feel the same, but this bread pudding recipe will at least make their tummy happy.

Recipe

First, we must make the custard:

1 quart half and half. (Yes you can use regular milk but c'mon, it's Christmas.)
1 cup sugar
1 vanilla bean or
1 oz. vanilla extract
6 eggs
6 egg yolks

Split the vanilla bean, scrape out the seeds and place the pod and the seeds in a saucepan with the milk and sugar. (If you're using vanilla extract add it at the very end). Bring the milk mixture to a boil. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and egg yolks. When the milk has boiled remove the vanilla pod. SLOWLY pour the milk mixture into the eggs, in a thin stream, whisking CONSTANTLY. You can even pour it intermittently. If you pour it in too fast you will scramble the eggs. Strain it into a bowl and skim any foam off the surface. If you'd like, you can add some of your favorite liqueur to the custard now.

For the bread pudding:

2 oz. raisins
6 oz. of French, Italian, or Brioche bread cut into half-inch cubes
3 oz melted butter
5 cups of the custard mixture

Preheat your oven to 300 degrees. Bring the raisins to a boil in water and then drain. Toss the bread cubes with the melted butter and then scatter them and the raisins in a 1½ - 2 quart baking dish. Pour the custard over the bread. Now place the baking dish into a larger pan, such as a roasting pan. Pour hot tap water in the larger pan until it comes at least halfway up the baking dish. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour or until the custard sets. The custard is set when it has a slight jiggle but is no longer fluid. The purpose of the water bath is to create gentle and uniform heating. High oven temperatures and/or lack of insulation from the water can cause the custard to curdle. Merry Christmas!

How to Make Buffalo Chicken Wings with Blue Cheese Dressing at Home

Right up there at the top of most searched chicken recipes is "chicken wings". And when I hear of "chicken wings", I immediately think "Buffalo Chicken Wings" which were made popular by an ingenious restaurateur by the name of Teressa Bellissimo who back in 1964 served her son and some of his friends some wings as a late night snack on a Friday night at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York.

The story goes Teressa deep fried the wings and flavored them with some special sauce. The wings became an instant hit in Buffalo and then around the country. Restaurants (and the chicken industry) loved that someone came up with a way to use the often-neglected chicken wing.

You will find hundreds of recipes for chicken wings on the Internet, some fried, some baked but each with its own unique sauce. I think you will enjoy this recipe that calls for both frying and baking the wings. And equally important, don't forget the celery and blue cheese dressing to help ease the pain of the hot sauce.

Blue Cheese Dressing

While the wings are baking you can make your own blue cheese dressing or go to the refrigerator and pull out your personal favorite store bought brand. I prefer homemade but don't always have the time. You will also want to be getting your celery washed and cut.